Despite the paucity of resources and the lack of a bright shiny exterior, the little health clinic here really strives to do the best, and most modern, medicine they can.

I therefore find the following ritual absolutely charming.

I noticed on newborn vaccination day that all the brand new mommies come in with cotton balls in their ears. Doubting there was an ongoing epidemic of postpartum otitis, I asked the nurse about it. She answered, as though it was the most obvious thing in the world, "The doctors do it so a cold wind doesn´t come in. Then they get cramps and fever and their body hurts."

Of course.